Friday, April 3, 2009

The Utterly Amazing Versailles

I took the train from Gare Austerlitz in Paris out to the the town of Versailles today.

I thought it was going to be sunny, so I left my jacket at home. When I got off the train, I discovered soupy, foggy, cool Portland weather. My mock turtleneck and skirt weren't going to keep me warm in this. At first I tried to brave it out as I walked toward the market. Then, I spotted a French ready to wear discount clothing store. Why not see if they had something to keep me from freezing? Usually, I have little to no luck finding clothes in Europe. I was hoping for a miracle. And that's exactly what I found: an adorable short red cotton coat that went with my outfit, was a great price at 27 Euros, and FIT me. Eureka!!!

Next stop: Versailles's open air market. This is what heaven must look like (or at least my version). Fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese, meats, seafood, artisan chocolates and culinary creations from one end of the large square to the other. Vendors playfully yelling to one another, locals out shopping for dinner, and just a couple of tourists like me to round out the small crowd. I saw more interesting and mouth watering treats than I could possibly take in. This market was even better than the Marché Bastille and this one is almost never on the tourist's beaten path. My favorite stand was run by two French girls in their mid 20s. The very pleasant ladies were selling loose teas, pepper, salt, and spices. They must have had 20 types of tea, over 50 kinds of salt and pepper, and about 30 loose spices. I briefly considered abandoning Portland and moving to an apartment right above the market just so I could shop here 3 times per week.

I stopped for lunch at a brasserie on the opposite side of the market, tucked off the main street. After investigating several bistros, I chose Au Petit Marquis. It looked unassuming and quiet on the outside. (Once again, they had a good specials chalkboard.) On the inside, I discovered a warm bustling bistro full of Parisians. There were almost no tables available; I was seated in the very back of the long restaurant at a small table for two. The staff and the people around me couldn't have been more polite. I ate a three vegetable paté with baguette, sautéed fruits of the sea with a saffron cream sauce for the main course, a lemon tart, and an espresso.

After lunch, I finally headed to the Versailles Palace. Pictures and words don't do the place justice. It's massive and opulent. The gardens and water features stretch for miles. I feel like I never need to see another castle. There can't possibly be one better than this one anywhere. I greatly enjoyed visiting the special exhibit on the jewelry and couture of Europe's royalty (minus Great Britain). I particularly appreciated the 250 year old wedding dress worn by a Swedish queen. What a life. At the end of the visit, I was definitely craving a more modern environment (like the Palais de Tokyo) minus the tapestries, heavy velvet drapes, and covering on every single wall and floor in the palace.

I wanted another coffee before I headed back to Paris. As I made my way up the street towards the train station, I spotted what looked like a cute café serving espresso and treats. I was horrified to realize that it was actually a McDonalds. This was one of their new McCafes intended to resemble a traditional French cafe. I just couldn't do it. So, I stopped in to the Starbucks next door instead. I overpaid for a tall latte; sadly it tasted EXACTLY like the one I get back home. So much for individuality.

Hopped the train back and listened to three NYU college students plan their futures. I remember when I thought I had it all figured out too. Amazing that one can be so sure of everything at 20.

Got my daily small baguette and crashed at my apartment. Finished off the sheep's milk fromage, cut up a big bowl of strawberries, and sliced the baguette. Oh... and another apple tarte. :)

I am getting a bit lonely without Nino and the beagles. It's been a long time since I've been on my own this long. I'm grateful that I can see and hear all of them on Skype each night.

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