Sunday, April 12, 2009

Easter Weekend

What a weekend.

Yesterday, I decided to take a break from Paris's urban elements and head back to the park. I took the Metro to the La Muette stop and headed for the Bois de Bologne, one of Paris's largest parks with lakes, playgrounds, and lots of places to take an afternoon nap.

I stopped first at the Musée Marmotton (near the park) which houses about 30 paintings by Claude Monet and others by Berthe Morrisot (the only female Impressionist), Renoir, and several other French impressionists that I didn't know. The museum is the former mansion home of a wealthy collector who lived when the Impressionists did. The first floor felt more like someone's home than a museum. I felt like the owner had invited me to tea and that he would pop in from around the corner at any minute.

I headed to the Bois de Bologne and straight to Le Chalet des Iles, a small restaurant situated on an island in the middle of the park's largest lake. I had a glass of white wine, shrimp tempura, duck á la orange, and espresso under beautiful skies and next to a charming, beautiful lake. What a great day to relax, read, and sit outside. After lunch, I walked around the island looking at spring flowers until I dropped down on a riverbank and read my book for almost an hour.

I made dinner at home and then tried to go to Easter Vigil Mass at Notre Dame, but wrote the time down wrong and missed it. I did get to talk to family on Skype yesterday; it was really special seeing and hearing everyone. The only person I missed in my immediate family was my little nephew, Ian.

Easter morning arrives. I got up really late at about 10:45am. I gave myself permission to stay in my PJs all day. I made coffee and then cooked a special Easter breakfast of brioche french toast, scrambled eggs, and roasted potatoes with dill and onion. I rented and watched Gene Kelly in a classic film which I fell completely in love with, An American in Paris. After watching the movie and staying in my PJs until 2pm or so, I wanted to get dressed and get out.

I decided today was the day to do something special that's been on my TO DO list for awhile. My grandfather on my Mom's side was stationed in Paris from December 1945 until August 1946. When he was here he visited many monuments and his mother put together an amazing scrapbook of the photos he took, including one of he and another GI atop the Arc de Triomphe. Today, I headed to the Arc to take a photo of his old office (located across the street from the Arc) and one of me standing where he stood over 50 years ago. I stood in line with the rest of the masses, climbed the steps to the top, and accomplished my mission.

From the Arc, I walked to the George V hotel to check it out. I liked the movie version featured in French Kiss better. The real one was just an average Four Seasons.

I grabbed a butter and sugar crepe in the St. Michel neighborhood before going to Easter Mass at Notre Dame at 6:30pm. And I didn't miss it this time. Over 1,000 people must have been crowded into the cathedral to participate in the Mass presided over by Cardinal Henri Vingt Trois (he's also the Archbishop). It was a wonderful experience to feel overwhelmed by God's love and that that love transcends the boundaries of language, country, and skin color. I understood a lot of the Mass, though definitely not every word. Taking communion was incredibly special. And I adored exiting the darkened church through the massive front doors into the still light-filled evening.

As I walked home, I saw the sun setting over the Seine. There are times when you are in exactly the right place at the right time and when you feel that you shouldn't be anywhere else in the world. Tonight, as I watched the sun set over the beautiful bridges, over the river, and over the top of Notre Dame's steeple I knew today couldn't have been more perfect. Life literally felt perfect and peaceful in that moment.

I cooked a fabulous Easter dinner: lamb steak with dill, French violet asparagus, champagne, and fresh bread with olive oil. And I finally dug into my Easter treats. My chocolate bunny and duck are now headless. :) I ate two lovely Fauchon macaroons and the bottom of my Easter chick. I'm finishing the evening chatting on Skype with Nino and writing some postcards about my absolutely perfect day. (I might also watch another Gene Kelly flick or Doris Day's April in Paris.)

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