Thursday, April 30, 2009

Monday: Last day for sightseeing in the City of Light

Nino and I were finally able to get in to see the Opera Garnier today. This was my fourth time visiting and we apparently made it just in time as they were going to close the auditorium again that afternoon for rehearsal.

I didn't realize until I got inside that Marc Chagall painted the ceiling of the main auditorium. I've liked Chagall since I was a kid because my mother hung a framed poster of his in my room at her house when I was growing up. I always associate Chagall with her and her love of art. I just wish she had been with me to see it. The opera house was a treat. I can only imagine this being my local theater and regularly seeing shows here. I already despise Portland's Keller auditorium and now I can never call that locale a "theatre" ever again after seeing the grandiosity, opulence, decadence, and beauty of the Opera Garnier. I was inspired all over again to write a play, musical, or other piece which could one day be performed at the Opera house. The next time I head to Paris, I definitely want to see a show here. I imagine sitting in one of the opulent, red velvet boxes where royalty, artists, and writers have sat and watched spectacles for nearly 400 years. Tickets sell out pretty far in advance and I couldn't get any this time.

After the opera house, we took the Metro to La Grande Epicerie of Paris, Le Bon Marché's massive gourmet grocery store on the left bank. I had a blast looking at all of the cases of fresh treats and gourmet goodies. Of course, they also stocked products like Lipton tea bags too. Nino and I had paninis in their outdoor café and then I bought white chocolate, dark chocolate, caramels from Fauchon, and rabbit paté in a jar to take home. We ended up also getting two caramel macaroons, two vanilla macaroons, sugary donut like chouquettes, and two canelés as well. What a sugar rush.

Just down the street from Le Bon Marché was the Chapel dedicated to St. Vincent de Paul. His actual, uncorrupt body was displayed in a gold case above the alter. Considering he died almost 200 years ago, it was awe-inspiring to see an actual miracle in the flesh.

And then Nino dragged me to the last church on the list, St Denis's Cathedral. It was a smaller version of Chartres or Notre Dame. And I was thoroughly "churched out" by the time we got here. Of interest though is that this church contains a necropolis with 800 years of French monarchs. During the French Revolution, all of their graves had been dug up and dumped in one mass pile. So, most of the graves are only markers and statues. Interesting, nonetheless though. The bodies of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette are here. Apparently, their remains were able to be identified and reburied during Napoleon I's first exile.

After the church, we stopped in at the cafe across from the cathedral and had coffee and nutella crepes.

We grilled veal chops, boiled pasta, and cut up a fresh loaf of bread with dinner.

Then, we went the Moulin Rouge for the 9pm show. I've wanted to go for awhile and check this out. I was hesitant, but hopeful that we'd see a good show. Unfortunately, it wasn't a good show in the least. We were wedged into a seat at the back of the theatre at a table meant for 6 people. Thankfully, our table only had four or we would have been really miserable. Although there were a few good acts like the woman who swam with snakes and the ventriloquist, the dancing and choreography were TERRIBLE. I liked the costumes, but it seemed like the main attraction was the topless women - not something I needed to pay 102 euros per person to see. Even a entire bottle of champagne couldn't dull the pain of this horrible tourist trap attraction. I'm glad I went and satisfied my curiosity though.

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