The Final List

I've been writing this list in my head for a few weeks and hope I can remember.

What I will miss about Paris:

• The sound of small French children speaking the language
• The efficient Metro system
• The culture and long history (museums, old buildings)
• Emphasis on the importance of slowing down to eat a meal
  
• The daily, year round outdoor markets
• Walking by the Seine River
• Speaking the language
• The utterly overwhelming cheese selections
• Musicians in the Metro system
• The divergence of so many cultures in one place
• Seeing the Eiffel Tower when you least expect to or aren't looking for it
• Amazing train options like Eurostar
  

What I will not miss about Paris:

• Annoying French teenagers on the Metro
• The smells of the Metro
• Produce that comes from Peru and far off places instead of locally grown options
  
• The crowds
  

The trip home

One of my worst nightmares happened this morning: the alarm didn't go off and we woke up when the airport shuttle arrived at the apartment. I'm always paranoid that the alarm won't go off and it's never happened until now.

I panicked, packed the rest of things, cleaned as fast as I could, and threw on my clothes before running out the door. I didn't have a chance to even think about the impact of leaving. I also didn't shower or even put on deodorant which made for an interesting journey back.

We made it to the airport with plenty of time. I cried in Nino's arms because I was tired, stresed, and sad about flying home on a different flight than him. We kissed goodbye; I dragged my bags and trudged sadly to my terminal.

I got one last café creme before boarding my flight. I had extraordinarily good luck on the flight and scored an entire row of three seats to myself. It made the long flight from Paris to Dallas almost enjoyable. In Dallas, I was able to use the Grand Hyatt's spa to take a shower and freshen up. The hot water felt heavenly after such a rushed departure and long flight. Since I can't go 36 hours without a shower, it made me think of my sister Andrea backpacking through Yosemite last summer without a shower for almost two weeks. Better her than me.

Dallas had awful weather and my flight to Seattle left an hour late. Missed my Seattle connection and was bumped to the last flight from Seattle to Portland, departing at 11pm. I finally made it back to Nino and Portland just before midnight on Wednesday night. I really thought I was going to have to stay in Seattle when we left Dallas so late.

It felt weird to be back. Even as I write this about 12pm on Thursday, it still hasn't hit me yet. It feels unreal to be here. But, the sun is shining and the grass is much greener than when I left. I get the beagles back tomorrow and plan to spend the day settling back in....

FInishing with a bang

Tuesday was all about getting ready to head back to Portland. I spent the morning packing before Nino and I headed to the bistro next to the apartment for lunch.

Le Temps de la Cerisaie is a tiny, tiny bistro that is literally about ten steps from the front door of my apartment building. They can seat about 20 people in all and they ended up putting us at a table of four with another couple. The food was outstanding. Nino had roast chicken with rice and carrots. I had a grilled salmon with rice. For dessert, Nino had an amazing chocolate cake with a gooey center. And I ate a delicious apple rhubarb crumble. Finished the meal off with an espresso - a habit I will have difficulty breaking breaking in Portland.

After lunch, I took the Metro back to the French Alliance for an end of month exam. Once again, the Metro system alerted me that my monthly pass was due to run out at the end of April. Sigh... I already knew that and it was a bit of salt in my wound to be reminded every time I entered the Metro. Several of my classmates including Rita from Italy, Olga from Russia, Madli from Estonia, and Jaoutay from Korea also took the test. We hung out together and chatted before undertaking the 2 hour oral and written exam. I was thoroughly exhausted afterwards.

I stopped for a crepe on the way home from school - a lemon and sugar crepe which has become my favorite. Unfortunately, the creepy crepe chef professed his love for me and then tried to follow me home. I was glad to go back to the apartment where Nino was waiting for me. I admit I was a little paranoid since Nino and I had been talking about the movie Taken just the day before. And although I enjoy the occasional flirting and indication of interest, stalking is not sexy.

Nino and I finished the trip with a bang by having dinner at Le Cinq, the signature restaurant at the Four Seasons George V. The George V is considered one of the top hotels in Paris. I wish I could remember every course - but after about 12 of them and as much as we had to drink that would be nearly impossible. Here's my best effort though.

The evening began with glasses of rosé champagne, a drink I will now forever associate with this trip. As an appetizer, I had the foie gras with strawberry foam on a bed of rhubarb. I've never been a fois gras fan, but figured if I was ever going to try it again then this was the place to do it. It was an inspired choice and I can now better understand people's undying love of foie gras. Our waiter poured me a special glass of sweet red wine to pair with the dish.

For dinner, we chose to share the lamb shoulder. They carved it right at our table and presented it for two courses in different ways. The first course of lamb was paired with a green harissa sauce and vegetables like watercress and carrots. The second preparation was over a small green salad. It was melt in your mouth incredible. Lamb has never tasted this amazing. We shared a bottle of red wine recommended by the server.

The cheese cart came by shortly after. It was the cheese cart to end all cheese carts. As the server quietly, slowly slid open the glass case on wheels, the fragrant aroma of cheese goodness filled the air. I took a long sniff and the server admitted she too loved the smell. We let her choose the cheeses for us. I remember delightful slices of mimoletta (hard, bright orange cheese like cheddar), St. Nectaire, Roquefort, and Camembert.

We were hurting at this point, but we still wanted dessert. We shared a fruit and cream dessert with flaky pastry layers, a Saint Honoré Aux Fruits Rouges.

And then the chocolate cart stopped by. Yet another server (the chocolate expert) helped us choose from caramels, chocolates, nougatine, and other tiny delights to pair with our after dinner drinks. Nino opted for a 1950 cognac and I had a decaf espresso. Nino couldn't stop oohing and ahing over his choice. I had a sip and gagged. To each his own. They gave us each a small box of fruit caramels to take home.

The bill was the moment of reckoning. I was pretty full from dinner and the price did actually floor me. I can say it was an incredible night that we'll never forget, but I can say I don't anticipate ever spending that much on dinner again.

We rolled ourselves out of the restaurant after 3 1/2 hours of culinary goodness and took the Metro back to the apartment one last time.

Monday: Last day for sightseeing in the City of Light

Nino and I were finally able to get in to see the Opera Garnier today. This was my fourth time visiting and we apparently made it just in time as they were going to close the auditorium again that afternoon for rehearsal.

I didn't realize until I got inside that Marc Chagall painted the ceiling of the main auditorium. I've liked Chagall since I was a kid because my mother hung a framed poster of his in my room at her house when I was growing up. I always associate Chagall with her and her love of art. I just wish she had been with me to see it. The opera house was a treat. I can only imagine this being my local theater and regularly seeing shows here. I already despise Portland's Keller auditorium and now I can never call that locale a "theatre" ever again after seeing the grandiosity, opulence, decadence, and beauty of the Opera Garnier. I was inspired all over again to write a play, musical, or other piece which could one day be performed at the Opera house. The next time I head to Paris, I definitely want to see a show here. I imagine sitting in one of the opulent, red velvet boxes where royalty, artists, and writers have sat and watched spectacles for nearly 400 years. Tickets sell out pretty far in advance and I couldn't get any this time.

After the opera house, we took the Metro to La Grande Epicerie of Paris, Le Bon Marché's massive gourmet grocery store on the left bank. I had a blast looking at all of the cases of fresh treats and gourmet goodies. Of course, they also stocked products like Lipton tea bags too. Nino and I had paninis in their outdoor café and then I bought white chocolate, dark chocolate, caramels from Fauchon, and rabbit paté in a jar to take home. We ended up also getting two caramel macaroons, two vanilla macaroons, sugary donut like chouquettes, and two canelés as well. What a sugar rush.

Just down the street from Le Bon Marché was the Chapel dedicated to St. Vincent de Paul. His actual, uncorrupt body was displayed in a gold case above the alter. Considering he died almost 200 years ago, it was awe-inspiring to see an actual miracle in the flesh.

And then Nino dragged me to the last church on the list, St Denis's Cathedral. It was a smaller version of Chartres or Notre Dame. And I was thoroughly "churched out" by the time we got here. Of interest though is that this church contains a necropolis with 800 years of French monarchs. During the French Revolution, all of their graves had been dug up and dumped in one mass pile. So, most of the graves are only markers and statues. Interesting, nonetheless though. The bodies of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette are here. Apparently, their remains were able to be identified and reburied during Napoleon I's first exile.

After the church, we stopped in at the cafe across from the cathedral and had coffee and nutella crepes.

We grilled veal chops, boiled pasta, and cut up a fresh loaf of bread with dinner.

Then, we went the Moulin Rouge for the 9pm show. I've wanted to go for awhile and check this out. I was hesitant, but hopeful that we'd see a good show. Unfortunately, it wasn't a good show in the least. We were wedged into a seat at the back of the theatre at a table meant for 6 people. Thankfully, our table only had four or we would have been really miserable. Although there were a few good acts like the woman who swam with snakes and the ventriloquist, the dancing and choreography were TERRIBLE. I liked the costumes, but it seemed like the main attraction was the topless women - not something I needed to pay 102 euros per person to see. Even a entire bottle of champagne couldn't dull the pain of this horrible tourist trap attraction. I'm glad I went and satisfied my curiosity though.

The last Sunday in Paris

As I write this from Portland, here's what I want to remember about my last Sunday in Paris.

Nino and I went to the Marché Bastille one last time, mostly so I could take photos. The smell of the roasting chickens, the crowd, and the seasonal fruits and veggies are what I will remember most.

In the afternoon, we visited two more churchs. Tried for a third time to see the Opera Garnier and again the main auditorium was closed.

We had a quiet dinner at the apartment that evening.

After dinner, I decided that I wanted to take a walk by the Seine and see the sunset. Nino chose not to come because he just wanted to stay in for the evening.

I left about 8:45pm and made it to the Seine as right as the sun was setting over the river. Once I started walking, I couldn't stop. I walked along the river to Notre Dame Cathedral and then kept going all the way until I reached the Eiffel Tower. By this time, it was completely dark. Just as I reached the Tower, it lit up in thousands of white flashing lights. The only thing which would have made the evening more perfect was Nino joining me.

I found a Metro station and realized that I had been gone almost two hours. Needless to say, by the time I walked in in about 11pm, Nino was not happy that I had been gone so long. I truly didn't mean to leave him on his own all evening. As Nino said, I get distracted by the pretty flashing lights sometimes.

My last Saturday in Paris

Nino and I slept late this morning. We didn't get up until 10:30am or so.

We stopped by a small café for a quick cup of coffee and snack before walking to the Marché Aligre. I've wanted to check this market out for awhile and finally went today. It is a daily fruit and veggie market about 3/4 mile from the apartment. It was a nice walk to the market on a cool day. And I loved strolling through the stands looking at produce and listening to the vendors. I didn't need anything though since Nino bought so much at the Marché Bastille on Thursday. I dragged Nino to Planet Sushi for lunch on the way back to the apartment.

I walked through the art market held every Saturday at the Bastille and Nino headed back to the apartment. I tried to go to the Opera Garnier again today and again the auditorium was closed for rehearsal. Supposedly, it's open tomorrow. We'll see.

Instead, I took the metro to the Musée Maillol, a museum containing the art and collection of Aristide Maillol. I only vaguely knew he was a sculptor during Rodin's time. I enjoyed the sculptures and paintings by him as well as by French painter, Seraphine. I still prefer Rodin, but looking at sculptures is a great way to spend any afternoon.

I came home to the apartment for a long nap and a hot shower before dinner this evening.

This evening, Nino and I dined at what has become my favorite restaurant in Paris, La Cigale Recamier. La Cigale Recamier is known for their excellent soufflés. The guide book I have recommended ordering three soufflés: appetizer, dinner, and dessert. And they were UNBELIEVABLE.

Nino and I both started with the small Basque soufflés, flavored with red pepper, thinly sliced ham, and cheese. For dinner, Nino opted for the nightly special: an asparagus soufflé. I took the server's recommendation and ordered the Henri IV soufflé, a mixture of cheese, spices, and chicken. If I've tasted something else better in Paris, I really can't remember what it was. I don't think there is anything more French than a great soufflé.

Dessert is where I made my only error of the evening. I ordered the chocolate mint soufflé which turned out to be a very mint soufflé with only a little bit of chocolate. It was good, but not nearly as divine as Nino's caramel soufflé. The caramel soufflé had been described by my book as the best soufflé on the menu. Nino couldn't finish, so I helped him out and finished his instead of mine.

I ordered and conversed entirely in French with the server and staff. The waiter complimented me on my French, which makes me very proud. When the waiter left, Nino rolled his eyes and asked me what in the world I am going to do back in Portland when people don't feel the need to boost my ego every day by complimenting by language skills. What indeed?

I wanted to walk home through St. Germain des Pres, but I lost Rock Paper Scissors to Nino and had to take the Metro back to the apartment instead. I used the time to finally catch up on my blog, although I had to share the tiny couch with Nino while doing it. :)

Chartres: Not Just Another Church

I did whine and complain just a little when Nino decided he wanted to go out to see the Notre Dame Cathedral at Chartres. I was unconvinced that this one was going to be different until he told me that this is a UNESCO World Heritage site. I was still skeptical though that it was going to be worth the 27 Euros per person in train tickets and the 90 minute Metro/train trip, but I chose to humor him and go anyway.

Chartres turned out to be not just another church. To begin with, it's massive and in excellent condition for an 800 year old building. This is the fifth church that has stood on this site. The stain glass windows and stone work were artful and awe-inspiring. I could feel the history in the floors and walls, lit by flickering candlelight. I lit a candle and sat in the pews before the pearwood, carved statue of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. It was well worth both the time and money to visit.

After the church, Nino went hog wild in old town buying regional liquors, chocolates, cheese, and other gourmet goodies. I had fun watching him have fun and translating as we went. I have gotten much more comfortable with speaking to people now - whether or not I understand everything they say and they understand everything I say.

We took the train and Metro back to the apartment in the evening. Nino cooked pasta (which he bought himself from the Marché Bastille) and cut up the artisanal cheese. I drank too much red wine. :)

Slowly winding down

Thursday morning was my last French class here in Paris. I was extremely sad when the class ended. I can't believe how fast the time has gone. Jean Charles was in a mood on Thursday. The Estonian student, Madli, showed up late to class and he ended up putting her on the spot and asking her to compare Estonia with France and about 5 other countries. (Today's grammar lesson was about comparisons.) In a mood or not, I will really miss Jean Charles.

After class, Nino and I headed to the Montmartre area. Tired of churches, I decided to take the lead on this afternoon. I promised Aunt Tracy that I would go to Montmartre and think of her (which I did). We visited the Musée Montmartre which was supposed to have memorabilia and history about the Montmartre area. Instead, the had an exhibit on French actor Jean Marais. And, unfortunately, Montmartre is as touristy as ever. It did remind me of Gene Kelly's character in an American in Paris though. I made Nino walk through the artist's stalls and look out on the view over the city. He was anxious to get back to a church we saw back near the Metro station. We did stop in to Our Lady of Clignancourt before getting on the Metro and heading back to the apartment.

On Thursday evening, Nino and I went took a dinner cruise on the Bateau Mouche. We got dressed up and took the Metro to the Alma-Marceau station. We had an amazing evening cruising along the river, seeing the city lit up, and listening to the live pianist and singer. Admittedly, the food could have been better. But since I had about half a bottle of champagne it was fine with me. Towards the end of the cruise, we went to the top of the boat so we could see the Eiffel Tower as we cruised by a second time.

We also watched an older couple celebrating either a birthday or anniversary get up and dance as the violinist played just for them during dessert. I got tears in my ears watching them.

We couldn't have had a better evening. Except for the time when Nino decided to make a face when I took a picture of us; it was the best photo of the night of me and it's pretty much unusable because of his funny face. He did make it up to me by buying an expensive cruise photo (also a phenomenal pic of the two of us) to remember the awesome evening.

Dinner at Chez Janou

Nino and I had an excellent dinner at Chez Janou this evening. The restaurant came highly recommended by two couples who have exquisite culinary taste, so we figured we were in for a treat.

The small, popular restaurant is tucked on a sidestreet, Rue de Tournelles, in the Marais area where we live. Even at 7:45pm when we arrived, the place was packed. I was surprised that they fit us in without a reservation. They sat us down at a table not far from the kitchen and next to another American couple. The other couple is from Virginia and relocated here for the next three years with their boys, ages 7 and 14.

Nino had an amazing house salad with tender greens, melon, mozzarella, and smoked ham to start. I ordered the baked mussels provençal. Then for dinner, I opted for the baked duck and pasta. Nino chose the steak and potatoes special. Dessert was probably the best. The house special is chocolate mousse. On the recommendation of the couple next to us, only one of us chose the mousse. One of the servers brought out a massive bowl of fresh made chocolate mousse and then scooped the rich dessert into my bowl. I could have asked for as many scoops as I wanted; some people actually do. The dark chocolate goodness was out of this world and so rich that I probably left at least 1/2 of what they gave me on the plate. Nino opted for the lighter vanilla crème brulée. It was good, but not as memorable as the chocolate mousse.

We enjoyed chatting with the other couple. I can't help but ending this post on something she said. "When you go back to the United States, be prepared that most of the food is going to taste like plastic." At least then maybe I won't feel like eating for awhile. :) Although my clothes fit fine, I am starting to feel a little heavy with all the rich food here.

The joy of reconnecting

Nino and I seem to be past the initial bumps of readjusting and now I'm enjoying reconnecting with him.

We took the Metro to the St. Michel neighborhood on the Left Bank today. Nino chose a lovely sidewalk cafe for lunch. We talked, ate, joked, and held hands. After lunch, we headed towards the Cluny Museum housing art from the Middle Ages. We, of course, had to stop at two churches on the way. I didn't mind so much today though.

The museum itself housed an interesting collection of relics and tapestries including one very famous one entitled, The Princess and the Unicorn. After the museum, we stopped for ice cream in the Latin Quarter and walked back to the apartment.

We split up when we got near the apartment so I could buy some red roses and Nino could head back for a nap. He still hasn't fully adjusted to the time difference or the richness of the food.

Adjusting back to reality

Nino arrived on Monday. So, Tuesday was our first day back together. Both of us are independent by nature, so readjusting back to the other has been a bit difficult.

I went to class yesterday and had another fun day with Jean Charles. We worked on oral exercises until I thought my brain would bleed. The subtle differences in sound were difficult for everyone in the class, even the students who speak Romantic languages like Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese. I am getting better though. In fact, I plan to take the end of the month test offered by the Alliance Française next week to test just how much progress I've made.

I got back from class about 12:30pm to discover Nino in his PJs. The afternoons are my time to head out and explore the city, so having to wait for him to get ready was not a good start. We had trouble deciding where to go for lunch and by 1:30pm I was rapidly losing patience. We ultimately decided on a small casual cafe where we both had sandwiches. Then we spent the afternoon going to several monastery product shops so Nino could buy products made by monks and a few churches. I was soooo bored it hurt. But, I went along anyway.

We took long naps and then headed to the Ile St. Louis for dinner. Nino chose a prix fixe meat-focused establishment called Nos Ancetres Les Gaulois which was better than I expected. The atmosphere was SUPER touristy, but the food was good. The French couple next to us was eavesdropping on our conversation and then made a rude comment about what I was saying on one point during the meal. I wish I had been quick enough to interject, but wasn't.

After dinner, we took a romantic walk along the Seine and stopped by a small bar in our neighborhood for a digestif. We were both a little tipsy by the time we got back to the apartment.

We both slept in late this morning. I made French toast, eggs, and coffee for breakfast. It's 12:30pm and I'm currently waiting for Nino to get ready. I showered and was ready about 45 minutes ago. It's definitely an adjustment to wait for someone else again.

Today, we're off to see the Cluny Museum of art from the middle ages, another church, and perhaps some of the sites in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood.

Au revoir London, Bonjour Nino

Yesterday, I spent my last day in London. David, Adnan, and I went to the Columbia Road Flower Market and the Spitalfields market. It was wonderful to spend one on one time with the two of them. They are an amazing couple, so in love. Being with them and meeting so many of their friends has totally changed my view on gay marriage in the U.S. I've always believed in civil unions, but I just can't see how the world would be harmed by letting charming couples like this marry. I think D&A may understand and appreciate each other better than most heterosexual couples that I know.

The flower market had mass amounts of people as did the antique/new goods market at Spitalfields. David and Adnan know all of the primo spots for coffee in this part of London; we must have stopped 3 times for cappuccinos. The two of them bought two dining chairs in bright orange plastic and a kitcshy, but very cool red plastic dog (it lights up too). Believe it or not, both the chairs and the dog work great in their flat. They both have an eye for decorating, something that (unfortunately) I was not born with.

Around lunchtime, David and Adnan headed home to have a quiet afternoon. I stayed behind at Spitalfields, grabbed lunch, and continued to browse. I next went to the Tate Modern museum. To get there, I walked over the beautiful Thames River on the Milennium Pedestrian Bridge. The art at the museum didn't grab me, but the location definitely did. Shakespeare's Globe Theatre is right next door to the Tate. I grabbed another coffee and sat by the Thames River watching the young families and people out and about on a gorgeous afternoon. I walked back to the Underground past St. Paul's Cathedral. I couldn't resist sitting down on the steps of the Cathedral and soaking up the late afternoon sun.

I got back to David and Adnan's to discover that an impromptu garden party was in progress. Apparently, a friend who lives nearby was having a BBQ. When David and Adnan chose to stay home, 6+ friends brought the party over to them and their new patio. David came inside to see if I needed anything else before I took off. I told him what a good life I thought he had. He replied, "You think?"

Took the Underground, Eurostar Business Class, and then the Metro back to the apartment.

I had another fun class with Jean Charles today. A young woman from Italy joined the class and we role played ordering food in a restaurant. Admittedly, my mind wasn't on class with Nino arriving. I rushed home at exactly 12pm and found Nino just arrived at the apartment.

Yeah!!!! Nino and I couldn't stop talking to each all afternoon. We had lunch at a sunny sidewalk café near the apartment. Then, I let him take a nap while I ran errands. We cooked dinner at home (baguette, fromage w/dried apricots, steak, sautéed red pepper/onion/aubergine, and a good bottle of red wine).

After dinner, I dragged Nino out of the apartment to take a walk by the Seine. We watched as the last vestiges of sunlight disappeared on the horizon. I took Nino on a walk along the Ile St. Louis. We stopped at Berthillon for ice cream and then went to Notre Dame to see the cathedral all lit up. It was quiet, romantic evening. And it was wonderful to see him after 3+ weeks.

Saturday in London

David, Adnan, and I had breakfast this morning on the back porch of their flat. They actually built the patio themselves last weekend. David, one of the master Pagliaro cooks, made his version of eggs benedict Italian style, coffee, and fresh strawberries. Yum.

I went to the Victoria and Albert museum today. I'd never been and decided to go when I realized it is about a 1/2 mile from the flat. It was a beautiful day for a walk (sunny and 65). The museum blew me away with their outstanding collections on fashion, jewelry, theatre/movies in England, sculpture, and glass. And that was just what I saw in the 3+ hours that I wandered around. The bookstore's collection of tomes on fashion, jewelry, crafts, and history were stunning. I picked up a book on jewelry showcased at the museum.

In the center of the museum is a large courtyard with a café, a fountain/wading pool, and plenty of places to relax. Since I skipped lunch and was headed shortly to tea, I ate 1/2 a scone with clotted cream and 1/2 of my cappuccino. David highly recommended their scones, so I couldn't pass up the chance.

From V&A, I walked to The Milestone Hotel for high tea. They apparently didn't have my reservation, but they accommodated me anyway in their lounge. Which turned out to be perfect. The lounge itself seemed Scottish with green leather chairs and booths, tartan & embroidered pillows (beagle pillow!), green carpet with brown and turquoise stripes, and paintings of hunting. It was quiet, warm, and cozy. A couple on vacation from Yorkshire struck up a conversation about London and both of our travels.

I started with a glass of champagne. Tea consisted of finger sandwiches (cucumber/cream cheese, smoked salmon, egg salad, ham/cheese, chicken/macadamia nut), 2 scones with clotted cream and housemade strawberry jam, chocolate mousse, a macadamia nut/white chocolate chip cookie, and tiny desserts (fruit tart, lemon cupcake, vanilla cheesecake, chocolate eclair). Needless, I couldn't finish or come very close. Funny enough I can't remember what tea I ordered, English Breakfast I think. It was good and I have no plans to eat anything else for the rest of night or remotely sugary for days.

I talked to Nino on my walk back towards the apartment. This is the last time I'll speak to him before he lands in Paris on Monday.

I stopped at Gloucester Road Books on my walk back. Wonderful used bookstores seem to be all over this city. Next time, I plan to pick up a local guide called the Book Lover's Guide to London so I can explore more of these treasure troves. I did buy a book on Edward Hopper's pantings and one on American landscape painting in the mid-1800s, both published by London's Tate Museum and at great prices when you consider the fabulous exchange rate right now.

I plan to spend a quiet evening at the apartment tonight while David and Adnan meet some of their friends downtown for dinner and drinks. After last night's party and today's outings, I'd like quiet evening on my own.

David & Adnan's international dinner party

About 12 people came over to David and Adnan's flat for dinner last night. A really fascinating group of people with such different backgrounds and perspectives. It was a good mix of men and women who have lived in so many different places around the world including Dubai, Pakistan, New York, Lebanon, Paris, Rome, and lots of other places.

I particularly enjoyed meeting two Pakistani women who are both accomplished professionally, married, mothers, and Moslem. Their perspective on the Arab world was eye-opening. One of the ladies grew up in Dubai from the time she was 4 until 17 when she moved to Boston for college.

The mother of one of David's friends joined us. She has lived all over the world including 8 years in Paris, 11 years in Rome, time in Lebanon, and is currently in the Eastern U.S.

Two of the women work in the fashion industry. One of them is a writer for Elle Magazine U.S. who covers fashion weeks around the world.

And, at least half of the people in attendance spoke excellent French.

Taking London by storm (Rain storm that is)

I've always wanted to just take the train from one European country to the next, touring as I went. It really is great to just hop on a train and go from Paris to London, especially when you're sitting in business class on the Eurostar.

I arrived at London's Pancras station this morning around 9:30am. I'm staying with Nino's super cool cousin, David, (one of the 4 Pagliaro brothers) and his partner, Adnan. After getting my bearings, I took the Underground (aka The Tube) to Covent Garden to meet Adnan at his office for the apartment/flat keys. This is the first time I've met Adnan and I loved him within 5 minutes.

Flat keys in hand, I got back on the Tube and headed for the Gloucester Road stop on the Piccadilly Line. I trudged about 3 blocks from the station to the apartment and found it with little problem. David and Adnan have a lovely 1-bedroom flat on a quintessential English street called Rosary Gardens. Identical looking brick row houses line either side for about a quarter mile. I dropped my small suitcase off and headed right back out.

Lunch today: fish and chips at an English pub called Museum Tavern. It's right across the street from the British Museum. It was bustling and warm on a grey, cool day like today. Lots of Londoners and a few tourists filled the place to capacity. I took a stool at the bar, near the many taps of beer.

First stop on my itinerary was the British Museum. I missed this when I was here 11 years ago and wanted to see it this time. I saw the Rosetta Stone up close and more Egyptian mummies than I've ever seen in one place. The British Museum x-rayed one of the mummies and discovered that the corpse was still intact after all these years. Gross and little too-Hollywood for me.

Next stop: Bond Street and Claridge's. I went to Claridge's back in 1998 for tea and desperately wanted to go back again. Unfortunately, I didn't plan ahead and they're booked solid. I stopped in to see if there had been any cancellations, but I was out of luck. I wandered around the Bond Street area, but didn't see much else that interested me. It's pretty much high end boutiques, many of which have similar items to what's offered in Paris or even Portland.

I got back on the Tube and headed for Portabello Road and Notting Hill. Admittedly, I've probably seen too many movies set in London including Notting Hill with Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts. Alas, Hugh Grant (or a look alike) was not running a quaint bookstore along the stretch. (That's alright since I'm more of a Colin Firth lover anyway.)

The actual, charming Portabello Road has antique shops, a flea market, newer goods stores, coffee shops, restaurants, and street vendors selling fruits, veggies, meats, and seafood. Of course, I found the cupcake bakery Hummingbird Bakery. The red velvet cupcake was excellent. It gave Portland-based Saint Cupcake a run for its money and this bakery is far better than the famous Magnolia Bakery in New York. I enjoyed looking at the antiquarian books, vintage costume jewelry, stationary, and china. The street also has several clockmakers/repair shops. Fascinating, interesting window shopping if nothing else.

I stopped at Progreso Coffee on Portabello Road for a cappuccino and a sausage/potato tart. The sprinkling turned into a full fledged rainstorm. I sat at a counter by the window watching the rain fall, people walking by, and the colorful fruits & veggies being sold by the grocer in front of Progreso. It was awesome.

Took the Tube back to the flat to meet David. He was home from work by this time and we had a chance to chat before the big dinner party tonight. David and Adnan have invited 12 people over to their home this evening for a very international dinner party. Friends of their from the U.S., Lebanon, Pakistan, India, and more are supposedly coming to dinner.

I love my life. If I didn't have the life I do, then I'd definitely want David's.

It's still raining and grey while I write this from the apartment. I feel inspired to curl up with a good book. I think tomorrow I am going to find some used bookstores and browse to my heart's content.

For the love of bacon

I don’t know exactly why, but I have a strong craving for bacon. Of all the culinary things that you can find in France, bacon? You’d think bacon would have caught on at some point. I saw one butcher with bacon the first Sunday at the Marché Bastille and I haven’t seen any since. It’s not in the grocery stores and no other butchers seem to have it.

Paris to London

I am writing this as my Eurostar train races from France to England underneath the English Channel (i.e. the Chunnel).

Wednesday and Thursday mark my last two days on my own in France. At this point, I’ve seen and done just about everything on my agenda. When Nino arrives next week, I have a 2-3 things I’d like to do but few things I need to do.

On Wednesday, I took the Metro to the Montparnasse section of Paris. Montparnasse borders St. Germain des Pres and the neighborhood that my school is in. I’ve been meaning to get to this section of town just to explore. I noticed that it looked interesting on one of my wandering walks after school and then again when I took the Metro here to see Duplicity last week. My plan was to see two Museums (The Bordelle Museum and the Zadkine museum), eat lunch at a spot recommended by Eat Shop Portland called L’Enclos du Temps, eat oysters for dinner, see Rachel Getting Married, and then visit Montparnasse 360. Montparnasse 360 is a tourist attraction in the city where you can see the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, from way up high.

Like normal it seems, I got a late start on Wednesday. I started with lunch at L’Enclos du Temps. The server was extremely amused when I asked for a menu in French. She then brought over (on dishes) the three specials of the day just in case my French was so terrible I couldn’t read the menu or the board. But, what she brought looked great. So, I had falling-off-the-bone roasted chicken with couscous and a mojito. I’m not usually a couscous fan, but this was excellent. Dessert was a baked apple with just a little bit of caramel and a tiny scoop of vanilla ice cream (Berthillon, I think).

After lunch I did visit the Bordelle Museum. Bordelle was a sculptor who lived at the turn of the century, about the time Auguste Rodin did. Although some of the sculptures were impressive in size and mastery, he seemed to sculpt the same 4 pieces over and over again. And I wasn’t nearly as enthralled with him as I am with Rodin.

Instead of going to another museum, I realized that Paris’s designer “liquidation” street (Rue du Cherche Midi) was a very short walk away. So, I shopped to my heart’s content at bargain prices. I bought a pink leather purse with a large pink flower from French fashion designer Andre for a mere 9 euros. And I found something I will treasure forever: a handheld black leather clutch from Christian Dior. It was made by hand in Italy and I got it for about 1/3 of what you’d pay for it in a department store.

After shopping, I headed back to the apartment fully satisfied. I talked to Nino and the Mingus family and then my mother and youngest sister, Andrea, on Skype. I went back again to Planet Sushi for dinner and to the Majestic Bastille theater to see Rachel Getting Married. Good movie; totally screwed up but realistic family.

On Thursday, I went back to class. Sean, the American fashion student from Los Angeles, joined us one last time. Class today was about how to order correctly in restaurants, something I’ve already mastered. And Jean Charles taught us that it’s okay to drink the tap water on the Right Bank of Paris, but not the Left Bank. I will definitely miss Jean Charles when I head back to Portland.

After class on Thursday, I ran errands and got ready for the trip to London. I also had an amazing oil massage at a highly recommended Thai massage spa (Ban Sabai) near my apartment. I was admittedly a little nervous getting a massage, wondering if I’d be able to communicate with the therapist. I’m glad I took the initiative though because the massage was incredibly relaxing and I understood most of what she said. It was more about understanding proper etiquette and routine in a French spa environment than really communicating.

Undaunted now, I also found a place to get my nails done. The esthetician and I chatted for about 30 minutes while she made my hands look and feel presentable. This was a good test of my skills and she complimented my accent at the end of the treatment. That felt great.

I spent a quiet evening at home on Thursday. I grilled a steak, cooked some polenta, and cut up a baguette. Natural, baked flan for dessert. And I finished off the second bottle of wine (not counting the half bottle of champagne on Easter). Since I now have an insatiable crush on Gene Kelly, I downloaded Anchors Aweigh and watched Kelly and Frank Sinatra dance their way through post World War 2 Los Angeles/Hollywood. It was a fun movie, but didn’t capture my heart the way Singin’ In the Rain and American in Paris did. Frank Sinatra had an amazing voice, but I just don’t understand why he was such a heartthrob. He does nothing for me.

I caught the 8am train to London. I opted for Business Class, which turned out to be a great idea. The seats are plush, the service is unbeatable, and they brought me breakfast and coffee.

Back to class Tuesday

Class was back in session today. Lots of new international students joined including ones from Brazil, Botswana, and Mexico. The students from Estonia, Russia, and Korean are also still on board. The Americans previously in the class have stopped or moved on to other courses. One New Yorker, Nilya, shares my passion for French and the desire for more Americans to speak a second language. It was fantastic to have so many international students once again.

After class, I stopped through the Marché Raspail and bought handmade, packaged crepes for home and some more dried strawberries from Provence. I had an amusing time trying to help an older American couple try to figure out the French word for chervil. Alas, neither the vendor nor I could help them. Although the vendor appreciated my help enough (and maybe remembered me from last week) that he spoke 100% in French to me and reminded me of his market days over the next week since he's apparently going on vacation. That felt nice.

I made crepes for lunch at home today: 1 with sheep's milk cheese and strawberries and 2 with lemon, butter, and sugar. Yummy!

I got the chance to talk to Nino and our friends the Mingus family over Skype this evening. Kat, John, Kyra, and Matt are visiting Nino this week. We Skyped while they had breakfast and I researched a place for dinner. They're off to the Oregon Zoo today.

This evening, I had a ticket to see the Martha Graham Dance Company at the Chatelet Theatre. Before the show I stopped and had French-Indian food. The garlic-cheese naan with plum sauce was to die for. Also enjoyed the "Nirvana" cocktail, lamb tikka masala, and espresso.

The dancers were excellent. I've always wanted to see this American modern dance troupe and was happy at the opportunity to see them at an old Paris establishment. The Chatelet Theatre was built in 1862, but is not one of the historic venues popular with tourists. I only chose the venue because of the show. I wasn't disappointed in the least, although the building could use some renovation.

After the show got out about 10:30pm, I stopped in the Chatelet area for Italian gelato. Italian gelato shops are incredibly popular here in Paris. Caught the Metro and headed home.

Easter Monday

I was expecting it and so was not surprised when just about everything (including my local patisserie and grocery store) were closed for Easter Monday today. I was also supposed to have class today, but didn't because the Alliance Française is also closed.

I took the Metro out to La Défense, one of the modern sections of the city that few tourists see. I saw the Grand Arche, a modern arch similar to the Arc de Triomphe that can be seen in the distance.

Then, I jumped on the bus to go to MalMaison, the home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. The guide book said it was usually crowded, but today seemed to be an exception. The bus I took ended about 7 stops earlier than I wanted, so I walked through the older, cute section of Rueil-Malmaison before going to the Bonaparte home. Unfortunately, a lot was closed here as well. But I did find an attractive cafe open for lunch. I stopped and had eggplant crepes with feta cheese, grilled duck with potato croquettes, and an espresso. I headed in the general direction of Malmaison and stumbled onto an amazing park, the Parc de Bois-Préau. Tulips in bloom, large rolling fields of grass, manicured trails, weeping willow trees with sunlight filtering through, and a few people reading, lounging, or playing. It was peaceful and heavenly. I literally saw a field of daisies that you could lie in while reading or napping.

I continued on through the park to Malmaison. I felt pretty triumphant finding it since I got there mostly on good directional sense and luck. It's about a 10,000-15,000 square foot mansion furnished with many of the items that Napoleon and Josephine actually used. Although the three story mansion and several acre grounds were large, it felt much more like home and less like a castle that an Emperor or Empress would live in. The paintings on the walls were of people they knew or battles that Napoleon's men had won. Rather than the pompous, too large halls and rooms of Versailles. Of course, Josephine did have a room full of closets for dresses, shoes, etc. Several of the dresses were displayed; they looked much more comfortable than the corseted dresses worn by the French royal court before them.

Spoke in French to everyone I met and they also spoke back to me in French. A win!

Bus and metro back to the Village of St. Paul to my favorite French chain store, Monoprix. Picked up some polenta, bread, strawberries, and household items before heading back to the apartment for a night in. Cooked up the leftover lamb and polenta (wonderful!). Cut up bread, sheep's milk cheese, and a tomato salad. The chocolate Easter bunny lost a leg and the Easter chick lost it's head. I also finished off the half bottle of champagne. A nice night. Now off to do French homework and get a good night's rest before going back to class with Jean Charles tomorrow.

Serendipity in the Metro

I love many of the musicians who play in the Metro. Tonight, I saw about 15 strings players (violin, cello, viola, etc) playing a small concert in the Chatelet Metro station. Although I don't normally like classical music, I was impressed enough to drop 20 Euros on a CD. They were amazing and I now have a wonderful keepsake of their talent.

Easter Weekend

What a weekend.

Yesterday, I decided to take a break from Paris's urban elements and head back to the park. I took the Metro to the La Muette stop and headed for the Bois de Bologne, one of Paris's largest parks with lakes, playgrounds, and lots of places to take an afternoon nap.

I stopped first at the Musée Marmotton (near the park) which houses about 30 paintings by Claude Monet and others by Berthe Morrisot (the only female Impressionist), Renoir, and several other French impressionists that I didn't know. The museum is the former mansion home of a wealthy collector who lived when the Impressionists did. The first floor felt more like someone's home than a museum. I felt like the owner had invited me to tea and that he would pop in from around the corner at any minute.

I headed to the Bois de Bologne and straight to Le Chalet des Iles, a small restaurant situated on an island in the middle of the park's largest lake. I had a glass of white wine, shrimp tempura, duck á la orange, and espresso under beautiful skies and next to a charming, beautiful lake. What a great day to relax, read, and sit outside. After lunch, I walked around the island looking at spring flowers until I dropped down on a riverbank and read my book for almost an hour.

I made dinner at home and then tried to go to Easter Vigil Mass at Notre Dame, but wrote the time down wrong and missed it. I did get to talk to family on Skype yesterday; it was really special seeing and hearing everyone. The only person I missed in my immediate family was my little nephew, Ian.

Easter morning arrives. I got up really late at about 10:45am. I gave myself permission to stay in my PJs all day. I made coffee and then cooked a special Easter breakfast of brioche french toast, scrambled eggs, and roasted potatoes with dill and onion. I rented and watched Gene Kelly in a classic film which I fell completely in love with, An American in Paris. After watching the movie and staying in my PJs until 2pm or so, I wanted to get dressed and get out.

I decided today was the day to do something special that's been on my TO DO list for awhile. My grandfather on my Mom's side was stationed in Paris from December 1945 until August 1946. When he was here he visited many monuments and his mother put together an amazing scrapbook of the photos he took, including one of he and another GI atop the Arc de Triomphe. Today, I headed to the Arc to take a photo of his old office (located across the street from the Arc) and one of me standing where he stood over 50 years ago. I stood in line with the rest of the masses, climbed the steps to the top, and accomplished my mission.

From the Arc, I walked to the George V hotel to check it out. I liked the movie version featured in French Kiss better. The real one was just an average Four Seasons.

I grabbed a butter and sugar crepe in the St. Michel neighborhood before going to Easter Mass at Notre Dame at 6:30pm. And I didn't miss it this time. Over 1,000 people must have been crowded into the cathedral to participate in the Mass presided over by Cardinal Henri Vingt Trois (he's also the Archbishop). It was a wonderful experience to feel overwhelmed by God's love and that that love transcends the boundaries of language, country, and skin color. I understood a lot of the Mass, though definitely not every word. Taking communion was incredibly special. And I adored exiting the darkened church through the massive front doors into the still light-filled evening.

As I walked home, I saw the sun setting over the Seine. There are times when you are in exactly the right place at the right time and when you feel that you shouldn't be anywhere else in the world. Tonight, as I watched the sun set over the beautiful bridges, over the river, and over the top of Notre Dame's steeple I knew today couldn't have been more perfect. Life literally felt perfect and peaceful in that moment.

I cooked a fabulous Easter dinner: lamb steak with dill, French violet asparagus, champagne, and fresh bread with olive oil. And I finally dug into my Easter treats. My chocolate bunny and duck are now headless. :) I ate two lovely Fauchon macaroons and the bottom of my Easter chick. I'm finishing the evening chatting on Skype with Nino and writing some postcards about my absolutely perfect day. (I might also watch another Gene Kelly flick or Doris Day's April in Paris.)

Auberge de Nicolas Flamel

As an avid Harry Potter fan, I really wanted to check out the home of alchemist Nicolas Flamel. Flamel was an actual person who lived in Paris - and he's been featured in many novels, plays, and movies.

His home is the oldest one in Paris and currently houses a good restaurant. I got dressed up in my new violet silk dress, cute gold flats, and a beautiful necklace from Indian designer Amrita Singh. I felt amazing, beautiful, and sexy tonight.

Auberge de Nicolas Flamel is hidden on a sidestreet in the 3rd arrondissement. I thought I knew how to get there, but ended up needing Google Maps on my iPhone to find the place. A hidden, secret location was a good start.

The charming host and the rest of the staff took great care of me. The atmosphere was perfect: rustic beams across the ceiling, intimate dining room, a single candle on every table, white tablecloths, and a single bird of paradise flower in a vase on my table.

I had two glasses of pink champagne. Don't know why (maybe Easter?) but I've been obsessed with having some pink champagne for days. I had a scallops and shrimp appetizer and roasted lamb and vegetables. Dessert was a taster platter of chocolate mousse cake, a chocolate slightly anise ice cream, and passion fruit creme with a kiwi slice.

At the end, the handsome and charming host asked me to stay and join him for a drink. I LOVE this city. I, of course, declined and took the Metro home to talk to my husband on Skype.

What I've been up to

It's been a few days since I posted. Here's what I've been up to:

On Wednesday, I was finally feeling much better after my allergy attack earlier in the week. It was a lovely, rainy day here in Paris. I went in search of Easter treats at Paris gourmet pit stops like Fauchon and Hediard. Based on a good tip, I found the best chocolate shop in Paris, A La Mere de Famille. I bought myself a dark chocolate easter bunny and a small dark chocolate easter duck from A La Mere de Famille. I'm convinced that this is where Easter baskets were invented. I had lunch in the Fauchon cafe and an afternoon coffee under the blue and green dome at Printemps, one of the older large Paris department stores.

On Thursday, I went to French class where I eventually made friends with both Sarah and Shawn. I definitely misjudged Sarah when I first met her. Neither Shawn nor Sarah will be continuing on in my class next week.

In the afternoon, I took the Metro to the Museum of Modern Art. What a treat. The place was pretty empty, the collection was amazing, and the view of the Eiffel Tower was stunning from the museum's café. This is definitely in the top three best Paris museums for me. And it was free. I then went to the Museum of Fashion, just next door. They had an interesting exhibit on corseted dresses. Yikes. Beautiful, but glad I don't have to wear those.

I went back to Planet Sushi for dinner. And it rocked my world a second time. Love that place! I took the Metro to the Montparnasse neighborhood to see Revolutionary Road and discovered a fun, lively area with lots of movie theaters. The one showing Revolutionary Road was scary looking, so I saw Duplicity instead at a theater down the street. A fun, but forgettable flick. I tried to stop at the St. Germain des Pres crepe stand at about 12:30am, but he decided to close up early at 12am. Another night.....

Today, I woke up really late. I hit another street market to stock up on food for the weekend. With Easter, there's no telling what stores, markets, etc will be closed Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. I had an Italian thin crust pizza and a glass of white wine for lunch at a peaceful sidewalk café about 1 mile from the Pere Lachaise cemetery.

I visited the Pere Lachaise cemetery late this afternoon. I purposely didn't buy a map and head straight for Jim Morrison's grave. I just wandered around amongst the trees and gothic monuments to the dead. I was surprised to see so many recent (after 2000) burials. I randomly happened on the graves of Colette, Honoré de Balzac, and Moliere. Finding three French writers felt right to me. This is the last and only cemetery I plan to visit in Paris. It was creepy and a little sad. I saw several black cats which truthfully felt like a bad omen. And it sprinkled. I was very ready to leave by the time I found my way out.

Sometimes I just want french fries

I woke up this morning sick with a cold. Sadly, I skipped French class and slept in.

When I woke up, I needed to get out of the apartment. I had planned to shop today after class at the marché on Boulevard Raspail. But, it's on the other side of town and I felt weird heading to that area after missing class this morning.

I started the day buying English language novels at Red Wheelbarrow Books in St. Paul's Village, just a few streets over from my apartment. I miss reading novels and am not ready for full length novels in French quite yet. I was really trying to only read, speak, and watch in French. My need to read is similar to my need to eat, breath, and bathe. In otherwise: critical. I bought The Reader by Bernard Schlink, Anita Shreve's Body Surfing, a short stories book called Kissing in Manhattan by David Schlicker, and In the Language of Love by Diane Schoemperlen. Diane Schoemperlen wrote one of my favorite books, Our Lady of the Lost and Found; that book is about an author whom the Virgin Mary decides to stay with on her vacation.

I walked up the Rue de Tarenne towards the Marché des Enfants-Rouges. It was beautiful and sunny, so I sat outdoors at a sidewalk café to have lunch and read. I had steak and french fries. When they handed me the English menu, I decided not to protest. It was wonderful to sit in the sun and eat french fries, with nowhere that I needed to be. Because I've already visited most of the museums and sites that I had to see, I don't feel pressured to fill my days to the brim.

After lunch, I made it to the Marché Des Enfants-Rouges. It was named after an orphanage and mission that inhabited this spot until 1777. Apparently, the name stuck. After seeing so many great markets, I was disappointed to find that this one was overpriced and didn't have the best quality fruits or vegetables. I bought some clementines and bananas and continued on.

By now, I was getting tired so I made my way towards Rue de Vieille Temple to head home. I turned on Rue du Temple and discovered lots of costume jewelry and purse stores. I so wish I had the energy to go in and shop at all of them today.

I did buy a few things during my errands today:

• Tomme de brebis cheese from a cheese shop (French sheep's milk cheese similar to Spanish Manchego)
• Strawberries, madeleine cookies, pre-made chicken cordon bleu, and cherry jam from the grocery store
• Apricot sauce (like apple sauce) and mint tea from a specialty shop called Comptoirs Richard. Plan to go back and get coffee beans there next week.
  
• 2 coconut pearls from a Chinese food shop
  

I bought my first bottle of French wine today. There is a French wine vendor with many locations around Paris called Nicholas. I figured I could get a good deal and not get laughed at when I explained what I wanted. I was right on both counts. The man was very nice and only used English sparingly. I told him what I preferred and he chose Domaine de Montgilet's (winery name) Coteaux de L'Aubance (vineyard/appelation), 2007 vintage. It was made and bottled in the Loire Valley.

Next door to Red Wheelbarrow Books is a shop called "Cuisine of Louisiana." I've been wanting to write about this shop since I first saw it and today it totally fit my mood. I've walked by this shop perhaps a half dozen times and laugh every time. They stock "American food" like Stove Top stuffing, Cheerios, and Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. It's tucked on a side street, so it most definitely is not for tourists. My guess is that sometimes ex-pats just have to have their Celestial Tea and think of home.

My last stop before home was at the patisserie 20 meters from my front door. I picked up a pain au chocolat for breakfast tomorrow. The mass amounts of children in line before and after me were excitedly talking about buying Mr. Freeze pops, the equivalent of Otter Pops in 30 flavors and colors like neon blue raspberry.

If Americans need their Kraft Mac and Cheese and salty french fries, why can't French children want a Mr. Freeze pop over buttery pain au chocolat?

Sick with allergies

I'm sick with allergies today. Unfortunately, the tulips I bought at the Sunday market were loaded with pollen. So, the beautiful flowers sadly went into the trash this afternoon.

I did venture out today to the Guimet Museum of Asian Art this afternoon. I meant to go to the Museum of Modern Art and the Tokyo Palace, but they were both closed. The Guimet had a lovely Asian fusion café on the bottom floor where I had lunch. I started with a salad with duck, avocado, raspberries, lettuce, tempura like cruncy bits, and strawberr vinaigrette. The main cntrée was several small dishes including white rice, 2 pieces of dim sum, a chicken skewer, and a delicious white fish in a peanut curry sauce. Dessert was the best: 3 little coconut mochi like dumplings served warm.

The museum had an extensive collection of art from throughout Asia. I particularly enjoyed the Chinese porcelains and Japanese paintings. A lot of it was closed today though. Since I was pretty tired, I just headed home.

Took a short nap. And then spent the evening talking to Nino and the dogs via Skype while I made dinner, ate, did homework, and finally took the photos off my camera.

Dinner tonight: Saint Marcellin creamy cheese and 1/2 baguette to start. 1 chicken breast with fresh mint and lemon juice, a small cheese souflée, and boiled cauliflower with fresh butter. I ended with a small slice of the natural flan tarte from Sunday's market and a cup of chamomile tea with milk.

Will surrender shortly to my allergies and go to bed early tonight. I have fresh sheets to sleep on since the maid came and cleaned my apartment today. The fresh sheets and cleaned breakfast dishes were nice; the vinegar like cleaning smell not so much.

Another day with Jean Charles

When I got to class today, Sara was sitting right next to my normal desk. I thought: Damn, she wants to sit next to me to speak English. And she did want to speak a little English, but I think she also chose to sit near me so she could learn. We talked a little bit at the break about her house in LA and living in France. And she's actually pretty good at written French, she's just slower to put the words together orally. We're really at about the same level. And I'm starting to like her.

After class, I headed to the pharmacy for allergy drugs. The flowers are blooming and so are my allergies. I could barely make it through class. I felt very proud that I explained my symptoms to the pharmacist in French. And then he asked me several questions in French before giving me Zyrtec and some throat lozenges. The lozenges are honey rose flavored. It seems like an odd combination, but they taste good. The pharmacist very sternly told me not to take more than 6 per day (the package says 4). I have no idea what's in the lozenges, but those suckers most be strong. I feel better already.

A mellow afternoon and evening

I napped and lazed around the apartment after I got home from the market.

Before making dinner, I decided to take a walk by the Seine. I crossed the bridge over to Ile St. Louis and then over to the Rive Gauche. I noticed the entrance to a lovely walking path and park along the river and joined the various Parisians and tourists already enjoying the park's charms.

I had happened on the Jardin Des Plantes. The garden runs along the Seine, crosses a major boulevard and widens out into a large park and zoo. This park is free to the public on Sundays between September and June. Lots of small children, parents, average Parisians, and an occasional tourist. Beautiful tulips and other flowers were in bloom. I can easily see why Paris is so special in the springtime.

I then wandered on into the Latin Quarter and 5th arrondissement. I saw an amazing Mediterranean pastry shop, lots of bistros, and many cute shops. I eventually made my way to the Metro station and hopped a train home.

I sautéed my cauliflower, grilled my veal chop, and cut another big slice of the artisan bread and slathered on some butter. I cut a small piece of the flan tarte for dessert. My younger sister, Laura, added Skype to her computer and kept me company while I cooked and ate. It was good to hear her voice.

A Kenyan wins the Paris Marathon

A Kenyan man, Vincent Kapruto, won the 33rd annual Paris Marathon.

Another Sunday at the Marché Bastille

I finally bought one of the delicious smelling roast chickens, half of one for a paltry 4 Euros or so.

I also bought:

• Fresh butter (It's a wedge wrapped up in plastic, with a paper wrapper.)
• A half loaf of fresh bread (The French call it crustless English bread)
  
• Fresh mint (simply so I can smell it)
  
• Orange-yellow tulips
• 2 red peppers
• 3 bananas
• Saint Marcellin cheese (Soft, cow's milk cheese from Lyon)
• A cheese souflé
• Fresh pita bread from the Lebanese vendor
• A half round of natural, baked flan

The chicken (which I ate for lunch) tasted as good as it smelled. It practically fell off the bone. I shamelessly admit that I licked my fingers. I cut one slice of bread and spread on some of the fresh butter. I've been trying to think of another way to describe it, but the bread plus butter was simply orgasmic.

Fresh herbs were in abundance today. A couple of the vendors just sold rosemary, basil, dill, mint, and other green/fresh herbs.

Busy museum Saturday

Here's what I did yesterday:

I ventured to the outskirts of Paris to visit the Aquarium. Small, but nice. A friendly tour guide (good looking man in his mid 20s) stopped and explained about a strange African fish I was snapping photos of. Apparently, the guide studied in Africa and he was very familiar with the fish. It looked dangerous to me, but he said they're harmless. He said the local people ate them. I asked if they tasted good. Apparently, that was the wrong question because he said no and excused himself. (Admittedly, if I wasn't married I would have continued that conversation and maybe asked for his number. Where o where are my single girlfriends when I find men for them?)

Next up, the French Cinematheque Museum in the 12th district. They had some neat old movie cameras, costumes, and props. Well worth visiting, but I would have liked to see more post World War II film history and items. They're currently getting ready for a retrospective on French filmmaker & actor Jacques Tati. I may go back for that or to see the Cecil B. Demille films that they're showing on their big screen. Cleopatra is on tonight.

I then went to the Georges Pompidou Centre, a museum dedicated to modern art. The building is extremely modern, but not really in a good way. One of the best features is the escalators heading up; you can see all of Paris off to the right through the glass walls. When you reach the 7th floor, you can see Paris in every direction including viewing the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, and Sacré Coeur. I enjoyed the Robert Delaunay and Sonia Delaunay paintings most.

I was done with museums, so I took the Metro to the Hotel De Ville stop for tea and a snack at Mariage Freres. A woman in my French class recommended this trendy tea spot. This is not far from the Louvre so (expectedly) the place was packed on a Saturday afternoon. I had a black vanilla bourbon tea with a creme brulée tart with raspberries on the bottom. Totally lives up to its reputation and I can see why they've been in business since 1854.

For about a week, I've been meaning to check the half price ticket booth at Place de la Madeleine for theater tickets. I finally made made it yesterday. But, I don't think I'm quite ready for an entire evening of spoken theater in French. This is near French gourmand heavens Hediard and Fauchon, so I briefly looked in the stores before heading home on the Metro. This area deserves an entire afternoon, so I didn't snap photos or buy anything on this outing.

Popped home briefly to talk to Nino and our friends Alan and Rosalia on Skype. Nino is in Seattle visiting the LeClercs this weekend.

For dinner, I decided to try to super trendy French-Japanese chain, Planet Sushi. Pink leather bucket stools, pink leather booths and white chandeliers. This restaurant is an incredibly popular gathering spot for French people in their 20s and 30s, particularly the Bastille location near my apartment. And the sushi was FANTASTIC!!! This is some of the best sushi I've had anywhere on the planet. And for dessert, they had nutella maki. It's a nutella roll with sweet rice, a little bit of crepe, and (if you want) bananas or strawberries. Unbelieavably great. I will definitely go back here sometime this week.

Walking around after dinner, I saw a Thai restaurant and an authentic Italian pizza joint that I intend to try before I leave. I love trying fusion food. It's so interesting to see how French fusion differs from American fusion.

The Paris Marathon & the Obamas made my day

I am totally, overwhelmingly in love with Paris.

I gulped down two eggs, fruit salad, yogurt, and coffee to walked not 20 steps from my apartment to Boulevard Henri IV to watch the Paris marathon. I walk down this road probably 3 times per day to get the Metro.

This morning, the entire boulevard was shut down for the marathon. About 50 EMTs were hanging out at the end of my street. Long water stations were set up along the sides of the street. The boulevard was filled with spectators, reporters, and well wishers waiting for the first runners.

A cheer went up from the crowd when the first African runners went by (Kenyan I suspect). Even the EMTs were snapping photos. A full marching band was positioned just down the street and struck up a tune when the lead car and first runners went by.

Families cheered on their husbands, wives, sons, and grandchildren. I stayed for almost an hour watching, cheering, and listening to the band. Many shouted "Allez" to encourage the runners to keep going.

I saw one man running and pushing his handicapped daughter. A Japanese man was dressed as Minnie Mouse. My favorite spectator was a little French girl in a red coat with a brown bear umbrella that had a sign attached that said "Allez Papa!"

And, of course, a few spectators who chose to get dressed up Bay to Breakers style and then join the race for about a block. Two were dressed as clowns, one man was in a pink speedo (Hot!), and the three of them pretended to chase a girl with a slinky dress and huge balloons stuffed in her bra/dress.

The marathon plus all of the photos with the Obamas and Sarkozys here in Strasbourg, France for the 60th anniversary of NATO make me feel so alive and happy to be in Paris right now. I feel like I couldn't have come at a better time.

Watching the Obamas and their warm reception in London and here in France makes me swell with pride to be an American. For the first time in several years, I'm not afraid to admit to being American while traveling abroad.

Loved Slumdog Millionaire

I went and saw Slumdog Millionaire this evening. I wrongly assumed it would be in English with French subtitles. The nice young woman selling the tickets politely asked if I understood French. I said I did and decided to stick around and see how much I could understand. I figured I could leave if it was over my head. Better to try and fail, than not try at all.

This was a great movie to choose because I already knew the basic plot and so much of it is images and facial expressions. The only words that were really important were the questions, all written on the screen in English. I understood a lot of the dialogue and stuck around for the whole film.

I wasn't expecting the violence, but it fit despite utterly shocking me. I cried at the end when he got the girl. Sad, but beautiful. Can totally understand why it won the Oscar.

The Utterly Amazing Versailles

I took the train from Gare Austerlitz in Paris out to the the town of Versailles today.

I thought it was going to be sunny, so I left my jacket at home. When I got off the train, I discovered soupy, foggy, cool Portland weather. My mock turtleneck and skirt weren't going to keep me warm in this. At first I tried to brave it out as I walked toward the market. Then, I spotted a French ready to wear discount clothing store. Why not see if they had something to keep me from freezing? Usually, I have little to no luck finding clothes in Europe. I was hoping for a miracle. And that's exactly what I found: an adorable short red cotton coat that went with my outfit, was a great price at 27 Euros, and FIT me. Eureka!!!

Next stop: Versailles's open air market. This is what heaven must look like (or at least my version). Fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese, meats, seafood, artisan chocolates and culinary creations from one end of the large square to the other. Vendors playfully yelling to one another, locals out shopping for dinner, and just a couple of tourists like me to round out the small crowd. I saw more interesting and mouth watering treats than I could possibly take in. This market was even better than the Marché Bastille and this one is almost never on the tourist's beaten path. My favorite stand was run by two French girls in their mid 20s. The very pleasant ladies were selling loose teas, pepper, salt, and spices. They must have had 20 types of tea, over 50 kinds of salt and pepper, and about 30 loose spices. I briefly considered abandoning Portland and moving to an apartment right above the market just so I could shop here 3 times per week.

I stopped for lunch at a brasserie on the opposite side of the market, tucked off the main street. After investigating several bistros, I chose Au Petit Marquis. It looked unassuming and quiet on the outside. (Once again, they had a good specials chalkboard.) On the inside, I discovered a warm bustling bistro full of Parisians. There were almost no tables available; I was seated in the very back of the long restaurant at a small table for two. The staff and the people around me couldn't have been more polite. I ate a three vegetable paté with baguette, sautéed fruits of the sea with a saffron cream sauce for the main course, a lemon tart, and an espresso.

After lunch, I finally headed to the Versailles Palace. Pictures and words don't do the place justice. It's massive and opulent. The gardens and water features stretch for miles. I feel like I never need to see another castle. There can't possibly be one better than this one anywhere. I greatly enjoyed visiting the special exhibit on the jewelry and couture of Europe's royalty (minus Great Britain). I particularly appreciated the 250 year old wedding dress worn by a Swedish queen. What a life. At the end of the visit, I was definitely craving a more modern environment (like the Palais de Tokyo) minus the tapestries, heavy velvet drapes, and covering on every single wall and floor in the palace.

I wanted another coffee before I headed back to Paris. As I made my way up the street towards the train station, I spotted what looked like a cute café serving espresso and treats. I was horrified to realize that it was actually a McDonalds. This was one of their new McCafes intended to resemble a traditional French cafe. I just couldn't do it. So, I stopped in to the Starbucks next door instead. I overpaid for a tall latte; sadly it tasted EXACTLY like the one I get back home. So much for individuality.

Hopped the train back and listened to three NYU college students plan their futures. I remember when I thought I had it all figured out too. Amazing that one can be so sure of everything at 20.

Got my daily small baguette and crashed at my apartment. Finished off the sheep's milk fromage, cut up a big bowl of strawberries, and sliced the baguette. Oh... and another apple tarte. :)

I am getting a bit lonely without Nino and the beagles. It's been a long time since I've been on my own this long. I'm grateful that I can see and hear all of them on Skype each night.

Me and my Metro Pass

I bought a monthly Metro pass which enables me to jump on and off the Metro within the heart of Paris as much as I'd like. I feel oddly empowered that I could go anywhere now.

April 2nd Afternoon

Here's a round-up of what I did yesterday afternoon:

I shopped in the Louvre Carousel shops. I ended up here by accident when I popped out of the Metro station to discover that I was in the mall. I was on my way to the Museum of Decorative Arts, near the Louvre.

The Museum of Decorative Arts covers many things including fashion and jewelry. Currently, there is an exhibition on fashion designer Sonia Rykiel. She's been designing ready to wear clothes since the late 1960s. She's still designing today. A sweater emblazoned "Obama" is the final piece in the exhibit. Some Japanese tourists were finishing the exhibit at the same time as me. They excitedly pointed out the sweater to each other and the only word I caught as they snapped photos was Obama. It's nice to be loved again. The jewelry was outstanding and creative. One purse (or very large broach) was a pink sapphire encrusted seashell. It's much prettier than it sounds.

Walked up the Avenue de Opera towards the Opera Garnier. This is the opera house from Phantom of the Opera. I stopped at a sidewalk café for a café creme and an apple tarte with vanilla ice cream. And got hit on again. I'm not sure if it was me or the possibility of a green card since this particular gentleman told me he is learning English so he can get a better job in the United States. Asked for my phone number again after I said I was married.

I thought I was going to see the opera house, but it turns out I really wanted to shop today. I gave up online shopping during Lent, so I've shopped very little over the past month or so. I stopped in at Zara (a popular Spanish clothing chain), Monoprix, and 3 or 4 other ready to wear type clothing shops.

I ended up at Galerie Lafayette who is having a huge spring sale. I bought a blue nylon hobo type purse from La Bagagerie, a popular Paris purse maker. I didn't have the energy to look at all of the costume jewelry, but I tried on some cute Spring clothes upstairs. Always a pleasure to stop in at Lafayette.

Jumped on the Metro and headed home for dinner. Got off at the Bastille stop, bought a small baguette, a brioche with sugar for breakfast, and an apricot tarte. Dinner ended up being the baguette, the amazing and mouthwatering sheep's milk cheese, fresh strawberries, and half of the tarte.

Today's trip to the Marché Bastille

Here's what I bought today at the Marché Bastille:

• Strawberries from Spain
• Cauliflower
• A piece of veal
• Fresh sheep's milk cheese (Don't believe you can get this in the U.S.)
• 3 bananas
• 6 more eggs
• 3 yellow plums
• 3 huge carrots
• A falafel sandwich for lunch from a busy Lebanese vendor
  

I made conversation with the butcher and several others while buying food today. My goal by the end of the trip is to shop confidently in this market, making conversation with the vendors and paying the correct amount at each stand. I'm getting there. Smooth sailing abut 80% of the time today.

A good looking French man (who sold me the bananas and cauliflower) hit on me and asked for my telephone number. I explained to him (in French) that I was married. He told me that he is free, no wife to tie him down. He was amazed that I made him speak French to me and not English. I'm here aren't I? Why not speak the language?

I've been hit on several times over the last week. Some men (like Mr. Cauliflower) find it attractive that I'm an American in Paris. Others (like one a few days ago) are turned on when they think I'm a French speaking Canadian and distinctly not upon realizing that I am an American. Truthfully, I was grateful that the one a few days ago dislikes Americans. I want nothing to do with men who walk up to me on the street and try to woo me. So. Not. Attractive.

Another adventurous class with Jean Charles

After Shawn decided to answer a question he didn't know in English, Jean Charles enacted a new class rule. A 10 Euro fine for every time a student breaks out in English. Sara's three English language outbursts occurred before the new rule. I hope Jean Charles actually collects.

I made friends with Olga today. She's here from Moscow for two years because her husband was transferred to Paris for work. She, her 17 year old daughter, 3 year old son, and husband live near the Seine. Natsuki was back today after being absent on Tuesday. She is hopelessly lost. I try to explain and help her as best I can, but I'm afraid she's in over her head.

The highlight of today's class was Jean Charles on French President Nicholas Sarkozy. Jean Charles despises Sarkozy and claims that the French are the laughing stocks of Europe because of him. It's sad, but I sort of enjoy Jean Charles on a rant. Jean Charles likes Sarkozy's wife, Carla Bruni. Apparently she is beautiful, intelligent, and elegant.

An average day

I spent the morning working from my petite apartment, listening to music and watching the British commentators discuss the G20 summit.

About 1pm, I headed to the Musée D'Orsay. It's probably my favorite Parisian museum since it primarily includes 19th and early 20th century art. I decided to grab lunch in the cafeteria and was sorely disappointed by the selection. I've eaten here several times over the years and always remember it as a treat. Either the quality has declined or my taste has improved. Not sure which.

I love walking through the galleries. I stopped frequently to listen to guides in both French and English discuss the paintings. Things in Paris are becoming more crowded, particularly with school groups, since we're getting closer to Easter. Many groups were in the museum today.

M absolute favorite painting is Alexandre Cabanel's Birth of Venus. I sat for awhile in the gallery where this masterpiece hangs, just staring. I may go back to see it.

Since I was starving, I tried my luck once again and ventured into the more upscale Musée D'Orsay café for a café creme and a small pastry. Good fortune struck. Both the coffee and cheesecake were great.

Headed out of the museum, only to be nearly accosted by a gypsy woman running a scam. I deftly avoided her and moved on. I despise the criminals who prey on tourists. I am on guard constantly around the museums precisely because of people like this. Unless I have a destination in mind, I avoid the tourist sections of town. In otherwise, no Eiffel Tower visit on this trip.

I crossed the Seine and walked to the Tuileries Garden, outside the Louvre. The chairs around the ponds were mostly occupied. I found a chair and wrote a few postcards in the waning afternoon sun. The Louvre is open until 8pm tonight, so I headed there next. I've been to the Louvre before so I didn't plan to stop there on this trip. But, there's a temporary exhibit on Egyptian art right now that I wanted to check out. Unfortunately, my museum pass wasn't good for the exhibit; they wanted another 11 euros to enter (equivalent $14). I didn't want to see the exhibit that much.

Found the secret entrance/exit out of the Louvre, jumped on the Metro, and headed home. I unconsciously breathed a sigh of relief upon reaching the Marais and the Village of Saint Paul. I picked up a small baguette for dinner and walked the rest of the way to the apartment.

Without Nino here to prod me, I stay in at night. I heated up my leftover gnochhi, sautéed eggplant, and aged manchego. Cut a little more manchego from my wedge, poured some olive oil, and sliced up the baguette. I finished dinner with my slice of tarte normande from last night since I fell asleep long before I was hungry for it. (It had cranberries in it, btw).

Right now, I'm talking to Nino and the beagles via Skype. Then, I plan to watch a French movie, Priceless, with Audrey Tautou before hitting the sack and starting all over again on another adventure with Jean Charles.